When I first began to approach the world of wine, Bartolo Mascarello was one of the first producers I became passionate about, and his Barolo has stayed close to my heart. This was in the early 2000’s, the time of the first edition of Terra e Libertà/ Critical Wine at Leoncavallo in Milan established by Veronelli, and the years of the controversy of the so-called “Barolo Boys” (from the 2014 film), a group of small producers from the Langhe region who, in the 1980’s and 90’s, had transformed the world of Barolo and Italian wines. Thanks to them, for the first time Barolo wine went international. It was highly appreciated overseas, and the prices of the bottles rose abruptly.

The Barolo Boys’ “revolution” was based on technological and enological innovations, the main one being the use of the barrique. It was this choice in particular that caused controversy and that unleashed an ideological conflict
between the Modernists (the Barolo Boys) and Traditionalists, among them Mascarello.

Bartolo, who at the time could no longer work the land, decided to contribute to the battle by designing a cult label for his Barolo which read “No Barrique No Berlusconi”. The label was an explicit statement against a certain enological and political tendency of the time. However, his experience and wisdom went far beyond partisan positions. The idea behind the label was based on thoughts much more profound than a simple motto. It was intended to safeguard the entire history and tradition of Barolo wine during a period in which it seemed that wine no longer needed the terroir. The Modernists hoped for a constant production of bottles in which origin had no essential role, which could be replaced by processing in the wine cellar and by promotional ability.

Today, we accept that this is not possible, but Bartolo Mascarello had understood it before anyone else. A man of great humanity and sensibility, he gave his contribution to the world of wine to the very end, transmitting the culture and traditions passed on to him by his father Giulio. The winery’s first label, in fact, is from 1918, and ever since then the tower crest, the family symbol, has always been present. Another distinctive trait of his Barolo is the blend of the four Crus owned by the winery in the fashion typical of the Langhe region (which is different from the French fashion), in order to attain a better balance and increased harmony.

Following Bartolo’s death in 2005, his daughter Maria Teresa has taken charge of continuing his legacy. Three generations in comparison, each of which has made improvements to the work that was done before. After all these years, we believe that Bartolo Mascarello’s message is finally and fully understood and is being passed on to a new generation of winemakers – and not only to them.
The whole world now seems to realize that the labor of the vineyard and the respect for tradition and soil are rewarded. If we observe the results of auctions in recent years, historic producers such as Mascarello, Giacosa and Conterno are the most in-demand and are valued the most.

As far as I am concerned, Bartolo Mascarello will always remain a point of reference and the representation of tradition, free thinking, and passion. His Barolo has always been impressive and, I dare say, much more modern than the Modernists’, not because of his technique but because of his vision and longevity.

by LUISA BIANCONI